Pain d’ÉpineFrench bakers make a specialty called pain d’épi or “ear-of-wheat bread.” The name refers not to the ingredients but to the shape, which resembles the spiky top part of the ripe wheat where the kernels grow in alternating position. Taking advantage of the happy punning possibilities, I hereby present pain d’épine, or “thorn bread.” The recipe will give you three thornbushes, or you can make just one and use the rest of the dough for a small loaf of bread or pitas. 5¼ oz (150 g) whole wheat flour
5¼ oz (150 g) white flour, plus extra for kneading
¾ tsp salt
1½ tsp sugar
1 tsp instant yeast
¾ c + 1 Tbsp (200 mL) water
2 tsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 egg, beaten
splash of milk Stir the two kinds of flour, salt, sugar, and yeast in mixing bowl. Measure out the water and add the oil. Pour into the flour mixture, stirring as you go, till it holds together enough to start kneading. (Here’s an insider tip: never actually trust a bread recipe that gives you exact ingredients with no wiggle room. Your dough will change depending on the type and brand of flour, the room temperature, the barometric pressure, the stock market, and any number of other imponderables. The point is to balance out water and flour till you get a dough you can work with. It’s easier to fix a too-wet dough with more flour than a too-dry dough with more water.) Once you have a nice shaggy mass, knead it by folding it forward over itself, turning a quarter, and repeating. Keep doing this, scattering a bit more flour on the counter if the dough sticks a lot, until you have a smooth and consistent mass. The longer you plan to let it rise, the less kneading you can get away with. For example, you can knead it for just a minute and then leave it in the fridge till the next day. When you’re done kneading, place the dough back in the mixing bowl slicked with a little more oil and cover with plastic. When the dough has doubled in size, gently punch it down and divide into three rounds. It will resist rolling out till the gluten relaxes a bit, so while you’re waiting, run up to the computer and print out this template of the Thornbush Press logo. Paper-clip a sheet of wax or parchment paper over top of it. Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). When the bread is willing to give, roll it out to about a 5–6” (11–13 cm) circle. Using a sharp knife or a bench scraper, lop off strips of dough that will fit over the various parts of the logo. Pinch them together as you go so they hold in place. Use the knife to carve out thorns where appropriate. Beat together the egg and milk in a small bowl and brush over the thorn bread. Slide the dough-on-parchment onto a baking sheet, pop in the oven, and bake about 15 minutes, or until burnished golden brown. Repeat with remaining dough.
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